Seams Fine... But Hems Giving You Trouble? Let's Fix That.

My new sewing machine seams fine.
It's the hems I have trouble with.

Okay... just a little (very little!) sewing humor to get us started.

But jokes aside--there's nothing funny about a sewing machine that won't cooperate. If you've ever battled skipped stitches, thread breaks, or uneven seams, you know how frustrating it can be--especially when you're working on an important sail or canvas project.

Here's the good news: the solution is often surprisingly simple.

Start Here: Change Your Needle

Before you start troubleshooting everything else, try this:

👉 Put in a brand-new needle.

It's one of the most overlooked fixes--and one of the most effective. A dull, bent, or incorrect needle can cause all sorts of issues, including:

Skipped stitches
Thread fraying or breaking
Poor stitch formation
Fabric damage

If that doesn't solve it, the next step is understanding which needle you should be using in the first place.

Understanding Sewing Machine Needle Systems

Not all needles are created equal. The "system" refers to the needle's size, shape, and compatibility with your machine.

Common Needle Systems

System 135 x 17
Used by many industrial machines like:
- Singer 111W
- Consew 206RB
- Portable walking foot machines (LS, LSZ)
System 135 x 7
Used by machines like the Singer 107
System 134
Used by Consew 272
System 130/705H
Standard for most home sewing machines (flat-sided shank)

Tip: The easiest way to find your system is to check the packaging that came with your needles or machine.

Needle Size: Matching Thread to Needle

Once you know your needle system, the next step is choosing the right size.

You'll typically see sizes written like this:

125/20

125 = Metric size
20 = U.S. (Singer) size

Why Size Matters

The needle must:

Be large enough for the thread to pass through smoothly
Be small enough to avoid weakening or damaging the fabric

Needle & Thread Size Chart

Thread Size	Recommended Needle Size
V-46	90/14, 100/16
V-69	100/16, 110/18, 120/19
V-92	120/19, 125/20, 130/21
V-138	125/20, 130/21, 140/22, 180/24

Pro Tip: Start with the smallest recommended needle. If you run into issues, move up one size.

Recommended Setup for Marine Fabric

If you're working with marine canvas like Sunbrella:

Thread: V-92
Needle: 125/20

This combination offers a great balance of strength and clean stitching for most marine applications.

Sewing with PTFE Thread (Like Tenara)

PTFE thread (such as Tenara) is incredibly durable--but it can be tricky to sew.

Use MR Needles for Best Results

MR needles feature:

A unique shape
Deeper grooves
Smaller diameter
Increased strength

They help reduce:

Skipped stitches
Thread handling issues

At Sailmaker's Supply, we carry MR5 needles, which are comparable to sizes 120/19-130/21.

Important: We don't recommend sewing Tenara on a home machine--it performs best on industrial equipment.

Final Thoughts

If your sewing machine is giving you trouble, don't overcomplicate it:

Start with a new needle
Confirm your needle system
Match your needle size to your thread
Adjust as needed

A small change can make a big difference in stitch quality and overall performance.

Need Help? We're Here.

If you have questions about needles, thread, or anything related to your sail or canvas project, we're always happy to help.

Until next time--
Happy sewing!

-- Jean
Sailmaker's Supply